Summer holidays are so good! While the winter at Morgenster is good for the vines and orchards, I much prefer the summer sun, so while they enjoy the cold, I visit my family and friends and some favourite places in the sun. One of the places I have visited is Monte Marcello, my home in Liguria which is just outside the village of the same name. It is high on the coast in a national park, built around a 12th century Saracen watchtower.
I named my delicate olive oil Monte
Marcello after this lovely place because
our Ligurian olive cultivars produce a wonderful late harvest olive oil as they do in this part of northern Italy.
I was so happy to read Stephen Tanzer's new article "South Africa's Ongoing Wine Revolution." He gave 92+ points to our Morgenster Reserve 2010 and 90 points to our Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2010. His reviews are below. But then, what was best for me because of my belief in building my wines to age, he also re-scored 93 points for our Morgenster Reserve 2003. Stephen said:
"I was also able to retaste the 2003 version and it was a stunner: Deep red-ruby. Sexy, sweet aromas of red berries, mocha, coffee bean and lead pencil had me thinking of Bordeaux's Right Bank. Plush and generous, with sweet red berry and milk chocolate flavors complicated by insidious coffee and herb nuances. Finishes very smooth and long, with resolved tannins. This actually tastes drier than its 2.5 g/l r.s. There's no rush to drink this highly complex, still-unfolding wine, which may well go on for another decade. I scored it 93 points."
When I return at the end of the month it will be a busy time for me as our new restaurant development has made good progress while I've been away. 95@morgenster will open soon and I will tell you more in my next newsletter.
Till next time,
This will be the view from 95@morgenster!
FROM THE CELLAR
Morgenster Estate Red 2010
- 92+ points - Stephen Tanzer
(48% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
and 7% Petit Verdot; aged for 18 months in 60% new
French oak): Bright red-ruby. Knockout floral nose
combines dark raspberry, cassis, graphite, shoe polish,
spicy oak and licorice. Wonderfully pliant, fresh and
deep; ripe but dry and powerful, with intense cherry,
dark berry and earth flavors lifted by a violet quality
and enlivened by brisk acidity (6.8 grams per liter!).
Finishes with firm but sweet tannins and terrific
persistence. This impeccably balanced, multilayered,
generous wine will need time in bottle to express
itself; it may well merit an even higher score by the
early 2020s. -- Stephen Tanzer. (Drink Dates: 2020 -
Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2010 - 90 points -
(14.6% alcohol; 50% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 10%
Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot; 30% new oak):
Saturated ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of blackberry,
licorice, shoe polish, clove, anise, minerals and herbs.
Juicy, suave and pliant on the palate, with nicely
delineated berry and licorice flavors complicated by
herbs and spices. Finishes firmly tannic and persistent.
Cheval Blanc director Pierre Lurton is consulting
winemaker here, which may help to explain this wine's
inner-mouth energy. -- Stephen Tanzer. (Drink
Dates: 2016 - 2023)